Knock out studs sideways

Knock out studs sideways
Family Handyman

A sledgehammer works great for busting up studs, but don’t take a whack at the middle of the studs – they’ll just wobble back and forth and probably bounce the head of the sledge right back in your direction. Hit the studs as close to the bottom plate as you can, but not so hard that you pull out the nails on the top plate – that’s a good way to catch a falling stud in the noggin. Hit the bottom of each stud just far enough to dislodge it from the nails that were holding it. Then grab hold of it and pull it off the top plate.

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Pull nails with a nipper

Pull nails with a nipper
Family Handyman

If you’re replacing windows, doors or flooring and you want to salvage the trim, end-nipper pliers are a handy tool to pull out brads and finish nails. The rounded end provides plenty of leverage, and if the nail breaks, you can always cut it down flush. Don’t squeeze too hard when gripping the nail or you may nip it off prematurely.

Drive dust outside with a fan

Drive dust outside with a fan
FAMILY HANDYMAN

A fan blowing out the window helps to keep dust levels down, and it creates a slight vacuum in the work area. That way, any gaps in your dust barrier will let air flow into the work zone, but dust-laden air can’t sneak into surrounding rooms. This works so well, in fact, that you may not even need a dust barrier for light-dust projects, like perhaps in a small kitchen demolition project. Just be sure to close large gaps around the fan with cardboard or plastic so wind gusts don’t blow the dust right back inside. For good airflow, you may have to crack open a door or window on the opposite side of the room.

Cut the jamb and pull

Cut the jamb and pull
FAMILY HANDYMAN

You can knock a jamb sideways out of its opening, but the nails or screws holding it in place put up strong resistance to the force you apply.

An easier way is to cut one of the sides in half with a reciprocating saw and then pull the rest straight away from the framing. You can easily pull away any nails or screws holding the doorjambs in place simply by using the leverage of the jamb itself. Make your cut at an angle so the two cut sections don’t wedge against each other, preventing you from pulling them apart. This same technique works for pulling out windows.

Cut fibreglass surround into pieces

Cut fibreglass surround into pieces
FAMILY HANDYMAN

Some bathrooms are built around a shower or tub surround. This means that even if you manage to remove all the fasteners holding it in place, the odds are you’re not getting that surround out the door in one piece. You’re going to have to dice it up. Make the long cuts with a circular saw, and finish the curved areas with a recip saw. Wear eye protection because fibreglass throws a bunch of chips when it’s cut. And a dust mask is a must – fibreglass dust is not something you want to breathe in. Most important, thoroughly investigate the areas where you’ll be making your cuts, to avoid severing any electrical wires or plumbing pipes.

Hearing protection is a must

Hearing protection is a must
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When it comes to hearing protection as part of your safety gear toolkit, earmuffs provide the most protection from loud power tools and outdoor equipment, while earplugs are less restrictive and can easily be stored in your pocket.

Use the right blade

Use the right blade
Family Handyman

When using a reciprocating saw, choose a metal-cutting blade to slice through pipes. Brace yourself when cutting above your head. Dust and debris can shake loose while cutting in older ceilings; always wear safety glasses and a dust mask as needed.

For cutting through metal pipes and nails, use a fine-tooth blade resembling a hacksaw.

When cutting through wood, use a coarse blade.

Use the coarsest-tooth blade to cut through plaster.

Some blades are toothless. They’re coated with tungsten carbide abrasive grit; use them for cutting stone, ceramic tile and cast iron when doing work like kitchen demolition.

Suck out insulation

Suck out insulation
FAMILY HANDYMAN

Tearing down a drywall ceiling is not a super-pleasant experience, but tearing down a ceiling that has 35cm of blown-in insulation on top of it is a complete nightmare. Avoid that gigantic mess by sucking out all the insulation in the attic before pulling down any drywall.

The huge vacuum required for the job costs about $220 a day to rent, but if your local rental centre doesn’t carry them, call an insulation contractor in your area. Many blow-in insulation installers also have the equipment to suck out the insulation. But this service isn’t cheap. You might be able to get a deal if you use the same company to blow in the new insulation. Make sure your insulation is fibreglass or cellulose. If you even suspect there’s vermiculite insulation in the attic, get an expert opinion before touching the stuff – it could contain asbestos.

Cut around the window with a recip saw

Cut around the window with a recip saw
Family Handyman

Spray foam insulation does an excellent job of insulating around a window – and a surprisingly good job of keeping the window or door in place. Even if you remove all the fasteners holding in a window, you won’t be able to pull the window out until you deal with the spray foam. So don’t bother pulling the nails or screws out of an old window. Just run a recip saw between the window and the framing and cut the fasteners and the foam at the same time. You may want a buddy on the other side of the window to keep it from falling out when you’re done cutting around it. With a long enough blade, you can even slice through the nailing flange at the same time. That’s important if you’re trying to save the siding around the opening.

Discovering and removing mould

Discovering and removing mould
Family Handyman

If you have to remove mould concentrations covering more than a few square metres, where the musty odour is strong or where you find extensive water damage, we recommend that you take special precautions.

Wear old clothes and shoes that you can launder or throw away after the cleanup work.

Wear special N-95 or P-100 respirators, in addition to goggles and gloves.

Set an old box fan or a cheap new one in a window to ventilate the room while working. Throw it out when you’re done cleaning, because the spores are almost impossible to clean off. Tape plywood or cardboard around the window openings so the spores can’t blow back in.

Wrap and tape mouldy carpeting in 6-mil plastic, and double-bag mould-infested debris in garbage bags for disposal.

To control airborne spores, moisten mouldy areas with a garden sprayer while you work.

Turn off your furnace and air conditioner and cover ducts and doors to contain spores.

Keep your wet/dry vacuum outside when you vacuum.

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