7 plasterboard installation mistakes to avoid

Framing at inside corners is often inadequate or lacking altogether, making it impossible to fasten the edge of the plasterboard (left). The solution is to inspect the framing before you start hanging plasterboard. Make sure there’s at least 20-30mm of exposed framing at corners. If not, add another 2×4 alongside the existing framing (right). Especially check along the top of walls that run parallel to the ceiling framing. Normally blocking is nailed to the top plate of the wall during the framing phase, but it’s often missing. If you have to add blocking and don’t have room to swing a hammer, drive screws into the blocking at an angle from below.

Check out these tips for working with plasterboard to make your next build or repair easier.

If you forget to mark the location of framing members before you cover them with plasterboard, you’ll have a hard time placing the screws accurately (left). For foolproof screw placement, make these marks and use them as a guide to draw a light pencil line across the sheet (right). Then you’ll be able to place screws quickly and accurately. And you won’t have to waste time removing screws that miss the framing.

Mark the location of ceiling joists on the top plate of the wall framing. Then mark the centre of each stud on the floor. Make note of unusual framing so you’ll know where to place screws after it’s covered with plasterboard. After the ceiling plasterboard is hung, mark the stud locations on the ceiling with a pencil before you start to hang plasterboard on the walls.

Here are more marking hacks every DIYer should know.

If you hang a sheet of plasterboard with the tapered edge along an outside corner, it will be hard to install the corner bead accurately (left). The corner of the bead will lie too low, making it difficult to cover with joint compound. The solution is to place cut edges along an outside corner (right).

Even with careful measuring, you’ll often run into an outlet hole that doesn’t quite fit. The common mistake is to screw the plasterboard to the framing before trimming the opening. Then the plasterboard will break around the electrical box (left), requiring extra time to patch. The key to solve this problem is to check the fit before you press the plasterboard tight to the wall.

After carefully measuring and cutting out the openings in your sheet of plasterboard, hold the plasterboard in place. If the fit is close, fasten the sheet with a few screws along the top edge or well away from the outlet openings. Trim excess plasterboard away along tight box edges with a utility knife (top right) until the plasterboard slides easily over the outlet boxes (bottom right). Then finish fastening the plasterboard.

Learn how to get the measure of any DIY job, big or small.

There’s no reason to measure and cut plasterboard for an exact fit. It’ll usually just cause trouble. Jamming in a piece that’s too tight will crumble the edge or break out a corner (left). And removing a piece to shave a too-tight edge is messy and time consuming. A loose fit avoids this problem. Cut it to leave about a 3mm gap at edges (right). In fact, when you’re hanging the ceiling, keep in mind that 10mm along the perimeter will be covered by plasterboard on the walls. And the same is true of inside wall corners. So you can safely cut these pieces 5mm less than the actual measurement and leave a gap in the corner if necessary. Even a piece whose edges aren’t covered should be cut a little short. It’s easier to fill a 3mm gap with setting-type compound than to cut and repair a broken edge or corner.

Taping plasterboard is time consuming and tedious enough without adding extra joints, especially those hard-to-tape butt joints (top). So plan your job to use the longest and largest sheets possible. And don’t scrimp on materials. Plasterboard is cheap.

However, hauling 3.6mm sheets is difficult and getting them into the house can be challenging. For large jobs, have the plasterboard delivered. Many plasterboard suppliers will even stack the plasterboard in the house for an extra fee.

Find out how to cover butt joints on plasterboard.

Avoid lining up a sheet of plasterboard with the edge of a door or window opening (left). Your home tends to shift and settle slightly, and that movement shows up at the corners of windows and doors. A joint at this location, even if it’s well taped, is weaker than solid plasterboard. Chances are it’ll crack in the future.

It’s better to notch plasterboard around openings rather than to make a joint. For interior walls, simply continue over the opening with a full sheet and cut out the opening after you fasten the sheet (right). Windows on exterior walls are a little trickier. Measure and notch the sheet before hanging it. Get help when hanging notched sheets because the skinny section above the opening is often fragile. It’s OK to join sheets over an opening (and often easier if you’re working alone) as long as the joint isn’t in line with either side.

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Source: Family Handyman