If hardwood or treated pine suffers from rot and decay, or the nails have rusted, then individual boards or whole sections of a deck may need to be replaced to keep it safe.

Leave new decking boards for two months before oiling or staining to allow the tannins to be released.

Timber that is cleaned and sealed regularly is more resistant to rot. TIP If a screwdriver penetrates soft, spongy timber, this indicates rot.

Step 1. Remove old boards

Step 1. Remove old boards
Handyman Magazine

Use a pry bar to lift and remove the damaged section, then prise out remaining nails using a claw hammer. Fill any splits in the joists with two-part epoxy filler to prevent further moisture damage.

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Step 2. Position new boards

Step 2. Position new boards
Handyman Magazine

Loosely arrange the boards in a staggered pattern with the ends finishing over a joist. Cut the ends square using a mitresaw and drill two 2mm pilot holes in each board above the centre of the joists.

Step 3. Secure the boards

Step 3. Secure the boards
Handyman Magazine

Ensure there are consistent gaps between the boards by tapping thin timber wedges in the gaps at every second joist. Lever boards into position as required using a chisel, then secure with decking nails or screws.

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