DIY Deck Renovation

  • DIY Deck Renovation , AFTER
  • DIY Deck Renovation , BEFORE

timber deck adds value to a home if it’s in good nick, and also provides an extra living space. 

This deck was reaching its use-by date and needed renovating to make it both safe and inviting.

First, the deck was cleared of furniture, then the boards removed and the old lattice taken down. 

The bearers and joists were mostly sound but showing their age, so they were reinforced with treated pine. 

Blackbutt boards, 120mm wide, were laid and also used to trim the deck. To replace the lattice, a bespoke screen was built using recycled hardwood sleepers. 

The deck and screen were stained the same colour and a comfortable new outdoor setting added.  

DIY DECK, handyman magazine,
Screen the sides of a deck for privacy and use clear bistro blinds to keep the weather at bay without blocking views.

privacy screen, DIY, handyman magazine,

Click here to learn how to build this privacy screen DIY 

Outdoor builds 

Decks are exposed to sun and rain, which takes its toll on both timber and hardware, but there are ways to prolong the life of your deck. 

Secure timber boards with stainless steel or galvanised screws or nails, and ACQ fasteners for treated decking.

Lay the deck 

Protect hardwood and treated timber joists with a flexible PVC covering.

Step 1. Remove boards

Lift the boards from the joists using a pry bar if they were nailed in position, or extract the screws. Cut around corroded nails or cammed out screws to remove the board, then grind off the fasteners or cut off flush with the joist. Check all structural elements to see what needs replacing.

Step 2. Reinforce joists

Attach 90 x 45mm H3 treated pine to the existing 100 x 50mm hardwood joists using 14-10 x 85mm bugle batten screws. Skew-nail the joists to the bearers with 75 x 3.15mm bullethead nails, using packers to level the joists.
TIP Lay Protectadeck over both the new and old joists to protect them.

Step 3. Install boards

Check the board ends and square off if needed. Lay 5-6 rows of boards at a time, staggering the butt joints. Starting flush with the edge, use a 3mm countersinking bit to drill two clearance holes, clamp the boards and attach with 10g x 50mm square drive decking screws, using 5mm spacers.

Step 4. Notch around posts

Position a trimmer joist parallel to the outside joist with a spacer block in between, securing to the timber post using screws. Measure the posts to cut out notches in the boards with a jigsaw, allowing 10mm clearance. Secure the notched boards to the joist and trimmer joist using screws.

Step 5. Cut overhang

The boards are laid flush with the end of the deck on one side and overhang on the other. When the
new decking has been laid, mark a cut line across the overhanging boards using a straightedge, cutting along it with a circular saw. Use a power planer to smooth the cut edges.

Step 6. Attach trim

Measure the finished deck to mark and cut decking boards to length to use for the trim. Cut the joining ends with 45° mitres using a circular saw or a mitre box and tenon saw. Position the lengths of trim along the joists using a square to keep them flush with the deck, securing with deck screws.

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